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Some have terrifying names, like polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP), but it’s the same binding agent found in aspirin tablets. Others are processing aids, mostly used to take things out of the wine. Some function as ingredients that go into the wine, like extra acidity to perk up grapes from warm regions. Today’s winemakers have an array of yeasts, antimicrobials and fining agents to choose from. Since then, an explosion of microbiology, chemistry and viticulture research has driven a quality revolution. Yet only 40 years ago, a wine could be good one year and horrible the next. Winemaking is both art and science and, over centuries, winemakers have learned to prevent taints and spoilage, from using sulfur dioxide as an anti-bacterial and antioxidant, to dropping egg whites into the wine to remove harsh-tasting tannins, a process known as fining. If you drop Vitis vinifera grapes in a tub and leave them, they ferment, but what you’ll get is vinegar or cloudy, sour wine. Which is an interesting claim, because wine doesn’t make itself. Asked how Wonderful Wines offer “wellness without deprivation”, Smith says they use organic grapes “wherever possible” and don’t manipulate their wines. Winc Wines, founded by Smith and Geoff McFarlane, is one of the US’s most sophisticated online direct wine businesses. “People are very interested in origin stories,” says Brian Smith, CEO of Winc Wines, which launched the Wonderful Wine Co in May, “but the modern consumer is looking for ‘how does this fit into my life?’” Where many wineries love giving encyclopaedic detail about the hill where their grapes are grown, for example, the Wonderful Wine Company simply says its white comes from “France”.
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Strangely, for companies committed to ripping the lid off the wine industry, the clean wine gang is pretty quiet about where their own wines come from, and most declined to be interviewed.
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It’s also working the company reportedly made $20m in 2018, its first year.
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#SCOUT AND CELLAR WINE FREE#
A Scout & Cellar recruitment video notes 68% of consumers will pay more for products if they’re free of ingredients perceived as bad disparaging the competition is good marketing. The clean wine companies are chasing a lucrative prize – a piece of the $52.5bn wellness market. This has opened a door for opportunists, who profit by claiming that other wineries fill their wines with noxious chemicals (they don’t). Unlike the food industry, winemakers don’t have to list ingredients. “I’ve been in the industry for close to 30 years and this comes up periodically, just under different names” – “minimal intervention” is one she remembers – “it’s a marketing exercise.”Ī pharmacologist and lecturer at the University of Adelaide, Stockley is a world authority on wine additives and processing aids, the heart of this issue. Out of nowhere has come Good Clean Wine, which “pairs with a healthy lifestyle” the Wonderful Wine Company, which offers “wellness without deprivation” and Scout & Cellar, a multi-level marketing company that boasts of its “clean-crafted wine” and intends to “disrupt the wine industry and do better for the planet”, among others.ĭr Creina Stockley sighs when she hears this over Zoom.